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If you order before noon your order will be shipped same day.
Yes we do. Shipping is calculated at checkout for international orders.
Continental USA- $9.95
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Email us directly at email@example.com to get the return process started.
Screen Print Direct.
7231 Boulder Ave.
Highland, CA 92346
Yes we do as long as the product is in new condition and no more than half of the contents have been used.
Credit usually takes 7-10 business days after we receive your items.
Please see our Shipping and Returns page for details on our policy.
Yes you can. You can do so on your order confirmation email or when you log into your SPD account. If you are unable to make changes please contact us as soon as possible, we get orders out quickly :)
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If you noticed that you received the wrong product, please contact customer service within 72 hours of receiving the product and one of our representatives will make it right.
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When an order is shipped, we'll update your account to show the tracking number(s), and send you an email with the same information. Using the tracking number(s) provided, you can follow the path of your order from our warehouse to your destination.
Items that aren't available to ship when an order is placed are on backorder. It will ship at a later date. We will provide you with an approximate ship date. Backorder dates are approximate, and we'll email you if the date changes.
Almost all our products (95%) are manufactured here in the USA
M-Fri 8:00-4:30 PST. Please keep in mind we are real humans! We do not answer email on the weekend, we like our families a lot.
Go outside, print, listen to music, work on cars, read about history and drink.
This debate has been going on since the earth was created. At the end of the day it doesn't matter which one you choose. The main thing is that you stick to only doing one. If you switch from pulling and pushing you will get fabric stretch.
Once the diazo is mixed into the emulsion you have a two-week shelf life. We suggest that you write the date on the bottle to keep track of the container. If you can store the emulsion in your fridge after opening that is the ideal location to prolong shelf life. BUT you need to make sure it does NOT freeze otherwise it is ruined. Hope this helps.
You do not need a hardener for your emulsion when printing low runs. If you are doing high print runs with hundreds of t shirts, then emulsion hardener would necessary.
The best way to indicate if your image is exposed properly is by using a step wedge. This will give you the exact exposure time you need with the emulsion & light source you're using. We have one available for sale here
The best way to remove emulsion is to use our Ecotex Emulsion Remover. First make sure all ink is removed. Take your screen and place it somewhere you have water flow, spray a generous amount of emulsion remover to both sides of the screen and wait 30 seconds. (Do not let the emulsion remover sit on the screen for too long. Otherwise the image will permanently be burned in the screen.) Spray the screen down with water pressure washer and the emulsion will strip off. Some screens may need scrubbing. When removing water resistant emulsion it is going to be more difficult to reclaim your screen and will require more work.
After coating a screen, you should store it in a temperature and humidity friendly environment. Your screen will last roughly one month and if stored correctly some have even had their screen last 6 months.
Yes you can, if you overexposed your screen. Some indications of an overexposed screen are
Not being able to wash out your image after exposing. Quality of image is not as good. Difficulty reclaiming screen after use.
*To dial in that perfect exposure time we suggest purchasing an exposure calculator.
The best place to store your emulsion is in the refrigerator, this ensures a long shelf life and the best results in use. Although this is not possible for everyone, ideally you want to store emulsion between 41 F-86 F. Be sure to prevent the container from wheezing or overheating.
The first thing I would do is adjust your exposure time. This is usually a sign that your exposure time is too low. Next would be degreasing if the screen was not cleaned before coating it with emulsion. It will not have a clean surface to adhere to. Another reason you are not getting a proper burn may be the mesh count your using, the lower the mesh count the larger the holes, so you will need a thicker coat of emulsion. Your exposure unit could also be the reason you are not getting a good burn. Every time you use your unit the light gets weaker and weaker. Lights get weaker as quickly as 8 months. Replacing you bulb regularly will help.
This could be an indication that your screen is dirty. You need to degrease it and clean it from all the contaminents. If the screen is not clean the emulsion will not have a good surface to stick to.
The first thing I would adjust is your exposure time. I would increase it. Second thing to check is your film positive. Hold up your positive to the light, if you can see through it that is the issue. This should be completely black to prevent the emulsion underneath from exposing. Another issue is your halftone dots may not be the proper size. You want to take your mesh size and divide it by 5. If you are printing on a 220 mesh count screen it should be a 44 line print halftone.
Low detail - Low Mesh (110/160)
White ink or under base printing - Low Mesh (110/160/200)
Thick ink (low bleed or opaque) - Low Mesh (110/160)
Glitter Ink - low mesh (110/160)
Highly textured surface like canvas - Low Mesh (110/160)
Higher detail on dark garment - Medium Mesh (160/200)
Layers on top of under base - Medium Mesh (160/200/230)
Thin inks - Medium Mesh (200/230)
High detail - High Mesh (230/280/305)
Non porous surface like paper - High Mesh (230/280/305*)
Fine details close together - High Mesh (230/280/305*)
Process printing - Highest Mesh (305)
Squeegees are super easy to maintain. Once your done using a squeegee, wipe the excess ink off the blade and that is it.
Durometer depends on the type of prints your doing. The lower the durometer, ex. 60-durometer, the more ink your squeegee will put through the screen. For the average printer we recommend using a 70-durometer squeegee that will get most jobs done. A higher durometer, ex. 80-durometer, the less ink will be put through the screen.
There are a couple ways.
1. Use regular rubbing alcohol to remove the adhesive.
2. Our press wash will strip the adhesive right off.
Yes you can remove SR liquid tape with water alone.
Yes you do. We suggest carding the excess ink and putting it back into the ink container. Any leftover ink should be cleaned with press wash. Once all the ink has been removed you can reclaim your screen.
SR stands for solvent resistant which means that it will stand up to harsh solvents but break down against water for easy removal. WR stands for water resistant meaning that this will work great when printing with water- based inks. However, it will be more difficult to remove so you need to use reclaiming chemicals to clean it off our screen.
Cure for 90 seconds at 320 F for best results 2-3 minutes at 300-320 F
Flash White - Formulated as a base not great as a standalone white
Poly White - Formulated for printing on Polyester or Polyester blended shirts because the cure temperature is lower
Hilight White - Formulated as bright standalone ink
We do have a guide that can help you out with all of your water-based needs. Here it is
The best way to test if your ink is cured is the wash test. If it washes away that means it is under cured. Another method is the stretch test. If the print cracks and does not retract when the fabric is released, the ink is probably under-cured.
An under base is highly recommended with any colored ink printing on a dark garment. If you are printing on a light-colored garment you can print without an under base although we still highly recommend one.
Mix your ink. Whenever you open a bottle of new or old ink it needs to stirred. The contents will separate. The oil can separate from the main pigment. Mix and stir your ink before each use. Always close your jar when not in use. Another tip is to wet the screen. Continuously mist the screen with water when printing with water-based inks this will prevent the ink from drying out. Always keep the screen "flooded." This keeps the ink moving and it will also keep all the ink together, making it dry slower. You can also add a reducer which will slow the dry time of your water-based inks. Another solution to fix clogged screens is our AP Wash, it will open up your screen.
Yes you can use almost every color without discharge activator. These inks can be used as regular water-based inks straight from the bottle or with the activator. Our Discharge White is an exception to this, it is a discharge only ink.
There are a lot of differences between the two. But we are going to keep it simple. Water-based ink is a less vicious ink, when printed it will create a softer hand print. Water-based ink is a little less user friendly because of how quickly it dries out. Plastisol ink on the other hand is a very user-friendly ink. You can leave the ink on your press overnight return and it will still be good. Plastisol ink will print thicker.
Ideally waterless hand cleaners work the best. We have one specifically formulated that will remove adhesives, ink and much more. You can access it here
White is a thicker ink because it carries more pigment than other inks. Generally whites will be the thickest color.
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