How to Screen Print Water-Based Ink on Denim

Soft, worn-in prints on a jacket that will outlive the trend

Screen Printing 101  |  Water-Based Ink  |  Specialty Garments

Most of the time we're talking tees and the occasional poster. This week we grabbed a denim jacket instead.

Good news first: printing on denim is just as simple as printing on any other fabric. Water-based ink actually loves it. You just need to nail a couple of setup details, and once those are dialed, the rest of the run is smooth. Here's everything we learned, plus the full how-to video at the bottom.

You can absolutely put plastisol on a jacket. But water-based ink brings something to denim that's hard to fake:

• Soft hand. Water-based ink soaks into the fibers instead of sitting on top, so you barely feel the print.
• A vintage, worn-in look. The print takes on some of the fabric's texture, which is exactly the vibe you want on a denim jacket.
• Breathability. No heavy layer of ink on a heavy fabric. The jacket still feels like a jacket.

Before you touch a squeegee, look at the jacket and find your print area.

• The back panel is your best friend. It's the biggest flat area on most jackets and the easiest place to start.
• Stay clear of seams, rivets and buttons. Anything raised under the screen will cause skips and uneven ink.
• Load it flat. Pull the jacket over the platen so the print area sits tight and smooth, with no wrinkles or bunching underneath.

This is the big one. Off contact is the gap between the fabric and the back of your screen.

Without the right off contact, your ink won't spread out evenly over the denim. Too little and the screen drags across the fabric. Too much and you lose detail.

Here's your check: after you run the squeegee across, the screen should snap back up off the jacket. If it sticks to the fabric, raise it a little. If it doesn't touch at all on the stroke, bring it down.

Add your ink to the screen and print like you normally would.

The one thing water-based ink asks for is a little attention. Leave it sitting too long and it starts to dry in the mesh, which leads to clogged spots and missing detail. The fix is simple: give the screen a light mist of water to keep the ink workable.

If you're printing in a hot shop or running a long batch of jackets, add water-based retarder to your ink to slow drying down. Mix in 3 to 5% by weight, and don't go over 5%, since too much can stretch out cure times or keep the ink from curing fully.

Water-based ink cures by driving the water out and then heating the ink the rest of the way. For Ecotex water-based ink, that's a minimum of 90 seconds at 320°F, and 2 to 3 minutes at 320°F for best results.

Denim is a thick fabric, so lean toward the longer end. Once it's cool, do a stretch test and a wash test before you run the whole order. If the print cracks or fades, give it more time in the dryer.

Can you screen print water-based ink on denim?

Yes. Denim is cotton, and water-based ink works great on natural fibers. It's a great match for the soft, vintage look most people want on a jacket.

Why won't my ink spread evenly on denim?

It's almost always off contact. Reset it with the jacket on the platen and make sure the screen snaps back after each stroke.

How do I stop water-based ink from drying in the screen?

Mist the screen with water while you print. For hot shops or long runs, add 3 to 5% water-based retarder.

What else can I print with water-based ink?

Pretty much anything porous. Tees, totes, retail bags, boxes and posters all take water-based ink well.

Want to see the whole thing? Here's the full how-to, start to finish.

Shop Water-Based Inks →

New to water-based? Start with our Water-Based Screen Printing Ink 101 guide.